![]() ![]() A cuts nice but has a long stringy ship that needs attention at all times. I broke a form tap that way one time as well. The 3rd is still in it now.Ĭondition A or annealed is what most of my material is. I have gotten about 15000 parts with 3 form taps. I usually break the taps on accident from bumping them (operator error). I run these form taps in screw machines with oil and I can run thousands. The chips will workharden and then you will re-cut them. Holes had to be much deeper to compensate for this. The small ones were hard to grind a relief yourself and they had a hydraulic effect when used. My dad says the ones he used to see years ago and the old ones in our tool crib dont have a relief channel ground in. I just discovered form taps this past year. we use the small key cutters for reliefs on the bottom of some blind holes(.055 dia) and they work and last a very long time. Harvey tool may had one they have some great small tooling. If you can find a thread mill that small I would try it out your old haas with 6k will be fine. On the 2-56 ones I did in 17-4 peck tapping does help but your taps need to be sharp. That minor will need to be as close to max as you can go and the it must be perfectly straight.įorm tap might work better in that small of thread, I use cut taps in 0-80s for steels alum with no issues but I dont know about the 17-4 as its a tad gunny before heat treat. ![]() the other popular shit dont work near as good. make sure you use lots of tapping fluid union butter field works best then the emuge stuff. I never did one that small in 17-4 or 15-5 materials smallest I went was 2-56. 0481 its about the size of an 0-80 american. Is this amount of pain just what I need to live with tapping condition A 17-4 PH? Should I get better cut taps like Natchis or Guhrings? ![]() How many will I have to trash to dial in the process?Ĭan I realistically threadmill that deep? Can I do it on a 20 year old beater Haas Minimill with a 6 K spindle? So all you production threading gurus.what say ye? I helical milled the bores first (after pre-drilling them) so I'm down to 65% of thread already which is my lower acceptable limit. ![]() The cut taps (I tried two different brands.no name from McMaster and Taylor taps) did not run in easily.I had to squeak them in an eighth of a turn at a time and it took forever as you can imagine. Since I'm gonna need to make these in respectable quantities (dozens) I need to find a better way that doesn't clinch my sphincter quite so hard as these ones did. So all has to be concentric (as good as I can realistically make it). They were the Devil's very own to tap.3 mm deep full threads because a shoulder bolt threads into these and is located by the recessed pocket you see. The problem is with the tapped holes they are M1.6 x 0.35 and they were put in with a cut tap. They will eventually be heat treated to condition H900.the stock is currently solution annealed (condition A). Is this really doable on a small tap like this? Lastly, I think smacking the tap to try to break it up might be risky to the part, but I'm curious about how this might work on tiny taps, and whether it affects the thread in the part.I have a project I've been working on and some of the parts are 17-4 PH.Īttached is a picture of two of the parts, and I have quite a few more to make. I also read about milling them out at high spindle speed using carbide end mill. 015 dia to slip down into the flutes, waiting for some epoxy to set up right now.Will try that when ready. Ain't holiday weekends grand?Īnyway - can a HSS tap be burned out (EDM)in 304? I have made a tiny tap extractor (of course this is a 3-flute bottoming tap), using some music wire. next week, and the parts I'm working on are parts that need mods and fixes, so they belong to the customer. And the customer has a NASA project they are shipping Tues or Wed. To add to the fun, the 2-56 hole is centered down inside a cup about 9/16" ID x. Just looking for suggestions about best methods for tap removal per parameters in post title. ![]()
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